EAT in Rome:
The Pommidoro is all game: Grilled meat on the menu includes deer, wild boar and so forth. The classic: Pappardelle, that is tagliatelle in wild boar sauce or fettuccine with vegetables from the garden. Talking of which: Pommidoro means pomodoro in Rom, that is tomato, and is the nick name of the owner named Aldo. Whether or not he is just as red and round as his namesake, we couldn't determine.However, the German daily Süddeutsche Zeitung dedicated a whole page to his wife Anna, who has served no less than 160,000 meals to her guests, filled with good, Roman specialties and lots of game. She and her husband seem to attract wild spirits: The restaurant is Roberto Benigni's and Pedro Almodovar's favourite, and no one other than Pier Paolo Pasolini enjoyed his wild boar here.
Who lives in a glass house shouldn't throw food. That's good advice in the Glass Hostaria, since that might be an expensive proposition: The beef filet alone costs 26,- Euro. So don't be childish and keep your cool, enjoying the great view: The stylish eatery with its high ceiling, the industrial look and brick columns is worth the visit.The scaled-up prices might be caused by the upscale clientele. The young and cool come to the Glass Hostaria, not so much to eat but to see and be seen. Nevertheless, the menu deserves a closer look: Michelin awarded it one star in 2010.
Caffé della Pace
The Antico Caffé della Pace is history: Guests have been making the pilgrimag to the calm square since the 19th century to sip on their espresso. It makes you feel like in a time warp: Pictures by G.B. Piranesi and G.B. Falda show the coffee house and its sourroundings as it looked in their days, and the many antiquities take you back in time.The café was then and still is the location of choice for poets, musicians, painters and everyone within their immediate orbit. This is where comedy is written, fashion trends evolve on the sketch paper, and ideas for poems and pictures are born.The guest list reads like the who's-who of the Roman and international art scene: The Dutch Thorwaldsen was here, just as Scipione, Ungaretti or Monichelli. Hot Tipp: Take a notepad and pen for an autograph. And if there is no big shot in sight, maybe you will be kissed by the muse and make great art yourself.
STAY in Rome:
The Italians got style. How nice when they pass it down to others. Luisa Longo does so. The artist and textile designer has opened her house-atelier Buonanotte Garibaldi in Rome and rents out three different rooms for selected design aficionados. The luxurious B&B hotel in Trastevere used to be Longo's parental home. Today you'll find an inner courtyard with orange trees and palms as well as three rooms to retreat behind the green ivory gate. The rooms are adorned with a mix of antiquities from the 19th and 20th century and textiles individually designed by the owner. There you'll find, for example, the Chocolate Room with golden and coppery-coloured shades. The citrus fruits and their fresh colours have been integrated by the Roman into the Orange Room. In the Rome Room she's draped hand-painted silk and satin. She serves house-made cakes and marmalade. And during the night a fine bevvy accompanied by Bach or Händel.
Hotel de Russie
The Hotel de Russie once hosted Pablo Picasso. Naturally, this drives up the price. Those who can still afford it should treat themselves to it. After all, you can do a lot without leaving the hotel. The spa is Italy's only luxury spa, offering exclusive beauty treatments, a Finnish sauna and a sea water whirlpool. There is an unpacking and packing service - doing the tiresome folding for you - a breakfast buffet room service, check-in inside the suite, and free usage of a Nokia mobile telephone. You see: You get what you pay for! Included is also access to the hotel butterfly oasis, which features all sorts of rare species, as well as the terraced garden in which you can dine as in paradise. Doubles starting at 680,- per night.
Lord Byron Hotel
Rome was built on seven hills, on the eighth stands the Hotel Byron. It goes without saying that the view from rooms with balconies or terraces is awesome. Yet you can enjoy more than the view of Rome, but also of the amazing gardens of Villa Borghese and the ritzy neighbourhood Paroli. The Byron Hotel is no less classy with its lavish Art Deco. We are back in the 1930s, carefully watched from the walls by the painted VIPs of the past. Marble bath, walk-in wardrobe and all sorts of modern facilities that would have been unthinkable in Byron's days top the experience: W-Lan, satellite TV and air-conditioning. The cuisine of the restaurant Sapori del Lord Byron is just as modern. It's rumoured to be one of Rome's best and offers excellent wines. Double starting at 280,- Euro per night.
SHOPPING in Rome:
Did you know? It's so hard to say good-bye to Rome, you would love to pack a piece of it and take it with you. If not for yourself, then at least for friends and family at home, since no one can describe how delicious this particular pasta or that pesto sauce was. A hot tip to make things easier for you: The Cerasari is a shop for delicacies in which you can buy all your most favourite treats and take them home with you. Endless wine shelves contain the best of Barolo & Co, wide counters seduce with Tramezzini and fish platters, the shop windows lure you with unusual pasta and sauces that are stacked to the ceiling. If you cannot decide, just buy a gift hamper, with wine, parmesan, canned goods, sausages and pasta all nicely wrapped for the undecided customer.
Not all ways lead directly to the goal: the Roman Micaela Calabresi Marconi made a detour and studied law. Only afterwards she was certain: she needs something where she can build and maintain relationships, a job in communication. Armani, Pucci, Zegna and Versace crossed her way, and she eventually opened an own event agency. But that wasn't enough. At the peak of the economic crisis Marconi took over Saddlers Union and together with her brother Paolo she dusted off the forgotten brand that specialises in historic, handmade leather articles. The new address? Via Margutta 11, the street of craftsmen, similar to Montmartre in Paris. Federico Fellini had his residence here - and for Marconi it was the ideal spot for a Saddlers Union boutique. Today only those who know where they want to go will find Saddlers Union. A door plate is missing - it's a cosy, private house with a workshop where favourite pieces can be repaired on the spot if need be. Marconi found her calling.
What made Ferragamo famous? Maybe the heels: Used in the right fashion they could serve as murder weapons. Or the double plateau: Not quite as deadly as the other high heels, but in combination with cobblestone pavement they are still dangerous. Or was it the price: For a whiff of nothing Ferragamo asks 300 Euro, the bags start at 900 Euro, providing enough room for Handy, Make Up and credit line. Whatever Ferragamo got right, today shoe fetishists from all over the world storm into the flagship store in Rome to buy once in their lifetime what the stars are wearing on the red carpet: Eva Longoria was seen there, Kate Beckinsale wore sun glasses from Ferragamo, Anne Hathaway, Hugh Jackman and Angelina Jolie joined their ranks and also wore Ferragamo, Ferragamo, Ferragamo. Thus prices don't come as a surprise. By the way, male feet are also served: The shop for men is only one door over and sells classics in leather.
SIGHTS in Rome:
It took ten years, various culture secretaries and 150 million euro to complete the eccentric building designed by star architect Zaha Hadid. She especially put emphasis on the interaction between glass, fair-faced concrete and metal. Once again it becomes obvious: it's not only art, but also architecture which is maximal here in the Flaminio quarter. The 27.000 square metres of the area with its 20 metres high entrance hall forms an open, urban space and guides the visitors along curved walls and interwoven levels on unexpected paths through five galleries. In the well-lit museum (thanks to the glass roof) we find the two museums MAXXI art and MAXXI architecture. The house is devoted to preserve and conserve the cultural heritage by means of exhibitions, workshops, performances and (educational) projects. But more: it offers space for experimenting and exploring modern aesthetic contents. Tickets for 11 euro (reductions possible).
Lazio vs. Inter
In Milan, Inter and the AC are at war in the San Siro, in Rome Lazio fights against Roma in the Stadio Olimpico. The four teams have one thing in common: They are all brilliant, at least from an Austrian point of view. Inter brought home the Champions' League with its proven defensive technique, AC Milan got that sought-after title seven times in total, Roma is playing with Francesco Totti, who won the World Cup in 2006, and Lazio counters with the Argentinean master Mauro Matías Zárate.Real fans should not miss the popular derby in the Stadio Olimpico. In contrast to some of the players, the audience is anything but defensive, and quickly boils over when the blood is stirring. Small advice: If you buy a ticket for one of the popular games, make sure you to sit with the Roma fans, not with Lazio - unless you tend towards the extreme political right.
Who's better, the Swedes or the Italians? Last year most would have said that it depends on your tastes. The Italians have traditionally specialized in baroque knickknacks, lots of brocade and kitsch ribbons, while the Swedes swore by practical, striped and minimalist furniture. Now everything is different, because today everyone agrees: Back to the roots, charming and cosy furniture made of precious wood should help you live the easy life! Europe is finally united. Each year more than a thousand visitors storm the Moa Casa. Some are there to evaluate the trends and others to buy the newest in interior design. 200 exhibitors work their customers on 20,000 square meters. If you need a break from all the furniture, you don't need to walk very far: Next to the MOA Casa the MOA Gustibus offers tastes of traditional Italian specialties, and naturally for purchase, too.